Thursday, September 3, 2009

Chevrolet Spark Fires Up Gm's Indian Market

General Motors India distributor of all GM products in India including high-quality GMC water pump has recently launched its highly anticipated Chevrolet Spark at a function headed by GM India President and Managing Director Rajeev Chaba. He said, "The Chevrolet Spark is the wor1d's newest-generation compact city car. It sets a new standard for its segment through its modem design, clever space utilization, affordability and solid engineering."

He continues, "Last year we began construction of a new manufacturing facility and introduced three new Chevrolet products - the Aveo, the SRV and the Aveo U-VA. We are keeping up the momentum this year with the introduction of the Chevrolet Spark, which gives GM an entry into India's predominant market segment."

Spark's Dynamic Styling
The Chevrolet Spark is one of the worlds most famous mini-cars. Starting from its introduction in 1998 almost 2 million units have been sold in over 100 markets. The theme for the new-generation Spark is Evolution not revolution.

The modern and dynamic styling of Spark makes it looks more matured while its smiling face makes it more inviting. Its large round head lamps with its integrated indicators are complemented by stunningly large circular tail lamps.

At the front is a blend of a tough-looking bumper and large air intake that reflects a new sense of sporty flair. The overall look of the Spark is dominated by a marked wedge form with short body overhangs. The powerful faade of the Spark is enhanced by the profile of its hood. Sharply rising shoulder lines and converging feature lines found on its hood extends through the front fenders add tension and dynamism. Its two striking V-shaped feature lines provide the Spark with a three-dimensional look. The steel surfaces that continue through the front side windows provide an unusual and harmonious link to the side profile.

The exterior design also features smart elements such as a rear spoiler, satin silver roof rails, and body side moldings which are offered as standard on the top trim level. The Chevrolet Spark is also fitted with alloy wheels but will be offered as an option.

Sparks fun exterior is complemented by a stunning interior with a completely redesigned cockpit. The operating elements of the design are divided into two parts. The first one is concerned with the drivers direct line of vision. There is semi-circular display area with ergonomic controls and warning lights inside the Spark. Positioned at the center of the dashboard are the speedometer and instruments that features a blend of analogue and digital displays. The interior is richly appointed across all trim levels with high-quality fabrics on seats and door trims.

Unmatched Comfort and Convenience
The Chevrolet Spark is spacious attributed to its intelligent packaging and 2,345 mm wheelbase. The five-seater offers a generous amount of standard convenience features and smart storage spaces. Also parts of the standard features are the cup holders, card holders, seat-back shopping hooks, and highly useful internally adjustable outside mirrors that are very helpful especially in the dusty Indian driving conditions. High-performance air conditioning is also calibrated specifically for Indias climate and provides an accurate cabin cooling that is a first in the Sparks segment.

And depending on the trim level, standard equipment may also comes with hydraulic power-assisted steering, electrically operated front and rear windows, and a digital clock. In the LT trim, the rear-seat backrest can be divided in 60:40 ratio, allowing for longer objects to be transported easily. The LT trim also comes with a sunglass holder in addition to a rear washer-wiper system and defogger.

With its compact body dimensions of (length x width x height: 3,495 mm x 1,495 mm x 1,518 mm) and its small turning radius (4,600 mm). The Spark is highly maneuverable and also fits into any parking space.

Highly Fuel-Efficient
GM Daewoo engineers developed the highly fuel-efficient and powerful new S-Tec engine exclusively for the Spark. The four-cylinder 1.0 liter petrol engine delivers peak power of 63 PS at 5,400 rpm and peak torque of 90.3 Nm at 4,200 rpm. Power and torque are maximized at lower speeds, which make the Spark perfect for commuting in congested city traffic as well as on open highways.

The Spark has the highest peak power per engine displacement in its segment. The engine has been optimized via number of technical improvements such as the adoption of low-friction valve gears, sequential multi-point fuel injection or MPFI, a dual distributor-less ignition system (DOLI), a motorized throttle intake system (MTIS) and advanced optical sensor. A reduced curb weight and more aerodynamic styling further improve the Sparks low drag co-efficient of 0.342 giving it the best fuel efficiency of any vehicle in the market.

Improved Safety
The safety features of Chevrolet Spark were also enhanced with the application of modern technologies and high-grade materials. Moreover 51 percent of the total weight of the Sparks body cell consists of high-strength steel, providing great rigidity and stability while lowering the weight by 10 kg. Its precisely defined load paths with an energy-absorbing hexagonal profile protect passengers in the event of head-on or rear-end collision.

The optimized links between B-pillar and sills provide side impact protection. And to further enhance protection, the B-pillar is made of three steel plates of different thickness. These plates are welded together so that in case of side impact the B-pillar will move like a pendulum rather than fold and protrude into the passenger compartment. This action is known as Tailor-Welded Blanking or the Pendulum method which is normally employed for larger vehicles in higher segments.

The other safety features found on the Spark includes driver air bag that will be available shortly after the post launching of the Spark, 2.5 mph impact proof front and rear bumpers, and tubeless tires which are first in the Sparks segment. The front-end design of the Spark is among the first in its class to comply with the new European regulations for pedestrian safety.
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Sunday, August 30, 2009

Chevrolet Beat Review

Chevrolet Beat was debuted in 2007 at New York International Auto Show. The concept model was designed in GM's South Korean design studio and the running prototype was built in India. The engine displacement of Chevrolet Beat is small and compact that makes the car-echo friendly. Initially, General Motors introduced only petrol versions but recently it has launched Chevrolet Beat LPG version, which is a dual fuel variant and costs between 4 lacs and 5 lacs.

Chevrolet Beat is the best performer in its category. According to ARAI, the car can give 18.6 km per liter on highways and in city it can give the mileage of 15 kmpl. Beat is equipped with small compact state-of-the-art STEC II engine with the displacement of 1199 cc with four cylinder and powered with 16-valve Double Over Head Camshaft (DOHC). These displacement specifications make sure to churn out maximum power and torque of 79 bhp at 6200 rpm and 108 nm at 4400 rpm respectively.

Chevy Beat is not a sporty type of car, hence the performance is not welcoming on highways but it is well-balanced on city drives and can give higher rpms. In just 14.8 seconds the car can reach 0-100 kmph. However, remember it is a family car not a racer so keep the revs down, in order to get best performance. Most of its counterparts provide electronic power steering but unfortunately the Beat has hydraulic power steering. The small car is the best performer if you do not exceed the speeds over 60 kmph.

It is equipped with distinctive features like automatic temperature controller and integrated rear-spoiler, which help to deliver higher fuel efficiency and balanced drive even at high-speed. The conventional front and rear suspension of Chevy Beat are McPherson strut-type and compound crank type that assures to give smooth balanced handling and a comfortable ride.
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Thursday, August 27, 2009

Checking A Second Hand Gas Scooter

Fixing your scooter.

If you own a scooter and cannot get it to start-up, you know how absolutely frustrating this can be. If you find you are in this position keep with us for effective tips and insight.

Check to see whether your exhaust pipe is blocked. Two stroke scooters are especially susceptible to this problem. Over time, carbon and the unburned fuel and oil mixture form up and clog the exhaust pipe. Blockages in the exhaust pipe will adversely impact the performance of your scooter, or cause it to not run at all. It is not easy to say whether the exhaust pipe is congested. Removing it and starting the scooter is the easiest way to tell if it is bunged or not. The sound may be a little loud - two strokes may resound like a chain saw. If the scooter runs now that the exhaust is removed, you know where the problem will be found.

Think back to when you drained the old gas. How old was it? Did the petrol have an old smell? petrol in a scooter left idle for a year or so will transform into a varnish-like substance. Then you have a lot of cleaning to do. The gas will commonly evaporate, imparting a sludgy, substance in the gas tank,petcock, fuel line and carb that is like to molassas. Completely flush the gas tank and lines with new gas.

If the gas tank is not too corroded or filthy, it may be ok to simply flush it out. Now put in some new gas. However, if you aren't sure how old the petrol is, (even if it smells all right), drain the gas reservoir, carburetor float bowl, and fuel lines,and restock with fresh petrol. Some time ago I worked on an Hond 50 with quite clean-smelling gas. I could make it go with starting fluid, but I couldn't do it with existing gas. At last I had to drain out all the old gas and top it up with new gas. After that, the scooter started at once and ran well.

Take the fuel and vacuum lines from the petcock to the carb. Put an appropriate receptacle beneath the fuel line, and draw air on the vacuum line to the petcock, (if equipped with one), and witness how well the petrol flows. There should be sufficient flow. A dribble is not good enough. If you are able to get this flow, then you are alright. Flush the system by running a minimum of a pint of gas through it. If there is still no flow, it possibly means your petcock is bunged. You will need to take it out and take it to pieces to clean it. Return it with attention on the gas tank or the gas might leak. start the scooter after repairing everything. The gas needs a few seconds of cranking to make its way from the gas tank to the carb. If you are fluky, it may start up right away.

If you still have troubles at this point try the following. install a new spark plug, particularly if it is a two stroke engine. The air filter should be cleaned or replaced when necessary. The carb, air cleaner, and exhaust system should all be inspected and adjusted to work together. If you change any of these items randomly or haphazardly, most scooters will not run correctly.

Check all the connections again. After that, turn over the engine for 10-15 seconds. Is it activated? Do you hear any popping sounds, as though the engine is attempting to run? Do not concern the throttle while cranking; many scooters do not start when you do this. In general, for Honda scooters if you utilize thethrottle just when the engine catches, they tend to fire-up easier. virtually all Yamaha scooters have to warm up awhile before you can use the throttle. If it seems the scooter is catching, but still will not start, stay about fifteen seconds and try again.

If the speedometer is not effective, it's typically because the speedometer cable is crushed. check it about 5-6 inches from its link at the front wheel. This is typically where it breaks because of the twist in the cable and being vulnerable to the elements such as water and dirt close to the front wheel. New speedometer cables are inexpensive (generally under $20) and you can trade them easily.

Now inspect the center stand of your scooter. Getting it parked on this stand can be demanding unless you practice. It's all in the technique. Even the center stand of a large motorcycle can be deployed by a small person if correct method is followed.

Now you are ready to drive and may wish to know how to raise the top speed of your scooter. This question is asked most often about the 50cc scooters, but also can be asked about the better scooters as well. The real queston that is of most importance is, how much money are you disposed to spend? If you own a 50cc, and you desire the top rate to jump from 25 mph to 50 mph, you might want to think simply ofbuying a superior scooter. As you increase the acceleration, you will notice that the brakes, suspension, and frame are not up to par. It is somewhat expensive to trade all the parts. If you merely want a little better speed, modifications to your 50cc scooter's carburetor, exhaust pipe, and the variator may result in augmented performance. possibly you can get a big bore kit and this will lift the engine displacement from 50cc to approximately 70cc.

Generally, adding a performance clutch or performance variator is the easiest thing to do. They may present you with better acceleration and/or advanced speed.

You can also attain a new performance carb, a new exhaust pipe or both. These two components (and possibly the air box) would need to be changed together for optimal performance. mostly, the engine is an air pump. You get more power when you move more air through the engine. By adding a better carburetor, you will draw more air and more fuel into the engine. By not changing the air box, you are restricting the total of added air. You also restrict the total of air out of the engine if you fail to trade the exhaust pipe with one that is either superior or freer flowing. Additionally, also changing the carburetor changes the fuel to air ratio inside the engine. The changes that you make may or may not be liked by your engine. For example, the new carb should give you more top end power, but may lead to starting troubles or the performance might be good at low RPMs but modest at higher ones. It can be hard work to tune your scooter to get the best performance. attempt to obtain a kit that includes a carb, air box and an exhaust pipe that are all planned for your scooter. It will make things much less demanding. finally, use the big bore kit. This will increase the torque and acceleration, but will not enhance the top speed unless gearing modifications are made. There aren't very many performance parts for large scooters readily available in the United States (except for certain new scooters).

Still want more performance? You can try some of the additional tweaks to additionally improve your gas scooter. You can try to get another drive belt. This will give you a little gain on the mph; new belts ride higher in the pulleys. You can also amend your roller weights (you can use heavier rollers for more top speed), adjust your valves, try a new air filter, and keep your tires pumped correctly.

Next check your idle. Is it too high? This can be caused by a throttle cable that is too tense or not routed correctly. It could also suggest that you need to twist the idle screw on the carb the reverse direction ~1/4 turn. A vacuum leak may also be a grounds for a high idle. The rubber manifold connecting the carb and the cylinder head may break after a while. try to start the engine and spray some water around the carb, manifold and vacuum hoses. If there is a reduction in the idle, it means that there is a vacuum leak somewhere.

Finally, one last thing to ponder is elevation. This may not happen very frequently, but it's good to know anyhow. Your scooter will have trouble getting enough air at heights above 4000 feet. You will need to place a lesser main jet in the carburetor. A good decree to track is to decrease the size of the main jet by about 10 percent, and then see if that helps performance.

Hopefully these tips will help you enjoy your scooter for years to come. Don't give up, contact us if you have further questions.
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Sunday, August 23, 2009

Chainsaws How To Choose The Right One

Many people think that chainsaws are only useful if you're a lumberjack, live in the woods, or are auditioning for a horror movie. But for anybody who scoffs the usefulness of the tool, there will come a day when your staring dumbstruck at a branch that is threatening to take a power line down on your roof. If you even have one large tree on your property or a neighbor that refuses to prune theirs, a chainsaw is a worthy investment.

Choosing a chainsaw will depend on the amount of use you expect to get out of it and the size of potential projects. There are two kinds of chainsaws: electric and gasoline. Electric models will be sufficient for the average gardener and many small-scale projects. There are different sizes available.

Makita chainsaws, for example, come in small and light enough models for even the dainty to haul around. You won't be able to slice through extremely thick tree branches, and you will have to be careful not to trip over the power cord, but these are perfect for light pruning.

Gasoline models are the large, heavy-duty chainsaws that are powered by a two-cycle engine which mixes gas and oil. These are the intimidating saws that you need to pull a cord to rev up. They create an unpleasant gasoline smell and can be very loud (so please, fight the urge to start trimming at dawn). They are much more powerful than electric models, so if you are planning on heavy, long-term use or a large-scale project, they are a better purchase than electric versions.

After you've narrowed it down between gasoline and electric, you'll still have to choose the bar length and engine displacement. These are fancy terms for the size of the cutting blade and the power of the engine. The average bar lengths of Makita chainsaws range between 14" and 20". The blade can cut twice as many inches as it is long safely with a single cut.

Engine displacement determines the power of a gasoline model, which is its size in cubic centimeters or inches. Big numbers equal more power. The longer the blade and bigger the engine, the larger the tool will be and subsequently heavier and more difficult to control. So it is important not only to choose a size safe for your intended project, but also one that you can comfortably use.

There are many optional extras included with some chainsaws. Makita offers models that come equipped with carrying cases, automatic chain oilers, mufflers to reduce noise, quick adjust chains, and anti-vibration. You'll also need to purchase some safety gear before revving up your new toy. Protective goggles, gloves, and appropriate footwear and clothing are necessary.

Makita chainsaws come in a variety of sizes and power levels so you're sure to find one that suits your purposes and needs. Whether it involves making some light yard work an easier task, taking down the dead oak in the backyard, or perhaps just an ultra scary Halloween prop, you'll get your money's worth out of this tool.
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Wednesday, August 19, 2009

CBZ Xtreme - The Latest Sensation From Hero Honda

The latest bike that came out from the house of Hero Honda motors under the tag name of CBZ is as CBZ Extreme. However, the bike is better known by the name of Hero Honda CBZ xtreme. The alphabet "e" is actually not present in the starting of the word "extreme" and so it is spelled as "xtreme".

CBZ xtreme bike mainly was launched as a successor to the notable bike known as the Hero Honda CBZ, which was considered the first bike in India to have four strokes engine and is tagged as a sports bike. This bike was introduced in the market during the year of 1999. The bike got extreme applause in the market and was considered a huge success which was observed due to the large fan base and fan follower it created since it is launching in the market.

In the year 2007, Hero Honda thought to launch a better and upgraded version of the early CBZ. In addition, this led to the creation of something known by the name of Hero Honda CBZ xtreme. Although the bike is more expensive than its predecessor is, but you will feel the difference while you ride over it.

In fact, you need not have to ride over it to observe the difference. There are visible differences all over the body of the bike. You will find little similarity with the normal CBZ bikes that the CBZ xtreme features for. Yes, it is true that the headlamp possesses a somewhat similar look with its predecessor but apart from that there is nothing that you can find to be of common origin in the xtreme version with the normal version of the bike.

The major difference is the presence of torque in the xtreme version which you will not find in the CBZ normal version. The major advantage that this bike features for is the inclusion of rear grip bars which is only available in this particular bike of the country. The presence of indicator lights is also a new thing that no other similar sort of bike does consist of.

Let us have a look at the specification details of the Hero Honda CBZ xtreme bike:

Fuel holding capacity- Usable 12.3 liters and reserve 1.5 liters.

Engine displacement capacity- 149.2 cc.

Engine Power- 11KW or 14.4 hp

Gears-5

Torque- 12.80 N-m @ 8500 RPM (9.44 ftlbf)

Engine cylinder type- Single cylinder (air-cooled)

Engine type- 4 stroke OHC

Brake Facility- Front disc brake (240 mm) and Rear drum brake (130 mm)

Power disc available- Yes, at front brake

Wheels- Rear 56 P, Front 42 P

Acceleration- 0-60Km/hr. in 5.6 seconds

Apart from these specifications, the CBZ extreme bike comes with a compact designable body which is much comfortable for the rider to operate and mainly features for a swift turn in facility. The bike is mainly available in colors of black, red (candy blazing & sports), metallic silver, and vibrant blue.
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Friday, August 14, 2009

Car Engine Modifications

Car engine is believed to be the heart of a car. Today, with the increasing numbers of cars, Indian car market also comprises a variety of engines with unique specifications and characteristics. These car engines can be modified or altered to boost engine performance and enhance fuel efficiency.

Here are some of the best tips on car engine modifications:

The best way to get better power and performance from the car engine is to increase engine displacement. This can effectively be done by increasing the size of the cylinders or by adding more numbers of cylinders to the equipped engine.

Increase the engine's compression ratio by fueling the engine by higher octane gasolines. This kind of gasoline helps to compress the fuel mixture and results in early combustion, which thereby produces more power.

Fix in an intercooler so that the compressed air gets cool before it's enter the engine's cylinder. This will help in expansion of air during combustion, delivering more power and performance.

Improve air flow to the cylinder and out of the cylinder because air resistance can reduce power. The air intake as well as exhaust should not be influenced by any kind of resistance. This can be done by placing two intake valves and exhaust valves in the cylinder. The intake flow can also be improved by adding big air filters to the engine and the exhaust can be improved by adding big exhaust pipes and flowing mufflers.

Replace heavy components and parts of the engine. Lighter the engine components better is the engine performance. Every time when the piston moves to change its direction it uses the energy from the engine and eventually reduces the power. In such a case, a lighter weight piston will be beneficial as it will absorb less power.

Fuel injection helps to precise metering of fuel to each of the engine's cylinder. This helps to boost performance and improve fuel efficiency.

Optimize the timings of the valve to have better burning efficiency. This will improve production of power and can be done by modifying the camshaft.

Chip tuning also helps in delivering more power. Most of the new cars are loaded with advanced engine that deliver higher power. Chip tuning in association with the engine management system reduces the excessive power to make the engine operate smoothly and with better performance. This is also known as de-tuning.
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Monday, August 10, 2009

Buying Your First Motorcycle

When searching for your first Bike, there are certain things that you should look for. This article should help you out so that you or someone you know wont end up with a lemon. I know it may be tempting to you to buy the first bike you look at, Dont! Its always a good idea to shop around and see what your options are, whether it cost, engine displacement, or just the brand or style of bike that fits you. I recommend buying used for a first motorcycle from a private seller via your local newspaper, or a classified website like Craigslist.org. Dealers are generally very over priced for used bikes, as they mark them up over bluebook value.

When searching for a bike, make sure you bring a motorcycle savvy friend with you if you have one. Also the search requires a certain set of tools. I like to bring a flashlight and a small mirror with me when Im looking for a bike. Even in daylight a flashlight can be a good friend. Start by looking at the overall look of the bike. Does it look shiny and new, or are there scratches and dings? Any kind of damage above the foot peg level, can mean that the bike has been laid down or wrecked. Then move on to the tires. Do they look worn or cracked? Are they slicks or track take offs? Do they have a fair amount of tread left? Looking at the tires is a good way to tell what the bike was used for.

After youve looked at the body work and the tires, move on to the most important part of the bike, the engine. Look for large amounts of grease, oil, and dirt, if there is a very large amount of any of these substances, it can have a lot to do with how well this machine has been maintained. If there is too much dirt, grease, or oil, it could be a sign of problems to come. If the bike is too clean, it could be that the seller is trying to hide something from you. Or it could just be really well maintained. Just keep in mind that a little dirt is normal. Look at the engine covers, are they factory, or have they been replaced? You can tell a lot just by the style of covers are on the engine. If the engine covers have a performance brand name in them, chances are they are not OEM covers. This can mean that the bike you are looking at has been raced. Another way to see if it has in fact been raced is to look at the heads of the bolts holding it all together. If they have holes drilled in them, the bike has most likely been raced. These holes are for small cables that go through the head of the bolt as a safety measure, and are required on most tracks.
Now take a look at the chain/belt and sprockets. These can tell you a lot about how the bike was ridden. If there are missing teeth on the sprockets, it can mean a few things. It can mean that the bike has been ridden hard, or stunted. It can also mean that it really hasnt been maintained as well as it should have been. When looking at the chain/belt there are a few things to look for here as well. Is the chain rusted, has it been repaired, how much play does it have? For a belt the same kind of scenario, is the belt frayed, teeth missing, cracked or broken? Either way I would recommend getting a new one.
Inspect the frame thoroughly. Look at the welds to ensure that they arent broken or cracked. Has the frame been modified, or repaired? This can be a tell-tale sign that the bike has been abused. Look for stickers on the frame that might be concealing damage, also check that the VIN number is stamped into the frame somewhere and matches the VIN on the Title, Overlooking this can cause you a heap of trouble. If the inspection looks good, theres only one thing left to do. If the owner allows it, and you have never ridden before, or do not have a license yourself, have your friend take the bike for a test drive. A simple test ride can tell you how the bike runs, and any quirks that may arise, and also show you how the bike responds performance wise, and to rider input. HAPPY HUNTING!
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